Exterior Installation of Thin Brick Veneer
 
Surface preparation: Over wood, wall board or plywood, cover the entire surface with 2.5 or 3.4 expanded metal lath.  Overlap the joints approximately 2", using 1 1/2" nails.  Over a wood surface, nails should be 6" apart in every direction.  Less nailing may be used if staple hammer is used.  Over plaster board or painted surface or stucco, nails should be kept 16" on center, penetrating the studs and 6" apart.  (Click on example to enlarge)  KEEP LATH TIGHT!  NOTE: Waterproof paper should be used over the exterior wood surface before installing lath.  (INTERIOR INSTALLATION DOES NOT REQUIRE METAL LATH AND CAN BE DONE WITH TILE ADHESIVES, WHICH IS AVAILABLE AT ANY BUILDING SUPPLY CENTER, AND APPLIED DIRECTLY TO THE SURFACE .)

A sand and cement mortar mix will then be applied over the metal lath, as thin as possible, but making sure that the lath is completely covered and SURFACE IS LEVEL.  Scratch up the plastered surface while it is still wet using a piece of wire or other material, so that the surface is not too slick or smooth.

Chalk lines: After plaster surface has cured, strike chalk lines.  For the 2 1/2" x 8" used brick veneer, strike lines every 6" horizontally for a 5/8" joint or every 5 3/4" for a 3/8" joint.
 
Buttering brick: Using a trowel, apply approximately 1/2" of mortar to the back of the brick piece, covering half of the brick the entire length.
 
Setting brick: Lay ALTERNATE COURSE BELOW each chalk line, keeping end joints plumb.  A slight movement back and forth creates a suction that will hold the brick in a permanent position.  Press onto wall surface firmly.  Sufficient mortar should be used on the back of the brick to create a slight excess that will form out at the edges of the brick.
 
Grouting: The brick veneer may be grouted on the same day if the mortar has dried sufficiently to firmly adhere the veneer to the wall surface.  If the grouting is to be delayed until the following day, make sure that all joints are left clean of excess mortar and that the surface of the brick is free from any splashed mortar.  Remove any excess mortar with a stiff wire brush.  In grouting, use a grouting bag.  Fill the bag half full, roll the bag tightly (forcing your knuckles into the side of the bag), then squeeze the bag with your other hand, forcing the mortar out of the bag and deeply into the joints.

Approximately 1/2 hour later, when the mortar is no longer wet, push the mortar deeper into the joints and at the same time, rake out an excess mortar using a rounded stick or the handle of a wire brush.  If it is sound at this state that by raking out the joints, the mortar smears over the face of the brick, wait an additional 1/2 hour or so until the mortar has set up further.  After the above procedure has been completed, wire brush any excess mortar from the face of the veneer and clean up joints at the same time with the wire brush and a whisk broom.
 

MORTAR MIX:
3 Parts Portland cement
2 Parts thinset
9 Parts plaster sand

GROUT MIX:
1 Part cement
2 Parts plaster sand or silica sand
(Mortar should be firmly rich with the cement or else it will not come out of the nozzle, add more cement)